What is "ideal woman's figure"?
Activity of model too thinIs prohibited,Plus size modelHas appeared in the fashion industry, "The model is slender" standard is changing. From the 18th century to the present age, women created "ideal figure" by using underwear such as corset and girdle, but the BBC wrote about what the transition was like It is.
BBC - Culture - What is the 'ideal' female body shape?
For the elite of the 18th century it was very important to be "a fashionable figure", and the wearing of compensating underwear called Stays (corset) was considered essential. However, it seems that Stase's epidemic was not the only reason "to show a woman thin".
For example, the existence of the idea of being a single person if wearing stays and allowing movement to be refined quite restricted still makes elegant walking. In addition, some women's body is inherently weak, some experts believe that stays have become popular because physical support was needed. On the other hand, it seems that opinion advocating Stays as "a metaphor for social organizations suppressing individuals" is not well supported.
The biggest advantage of compensating underwear to tighten the waistline was to be able to draw attention to the upper body. According to Mr. Dennis Bruna, curator of the Paris Decorative Art Museum, parts in the lower part of the Western culture have not been considered valuable but have been hidden in skirts and petticoats for hundreds of years.
After the French Revolution, Stays became avoidable as being "aristocratic", but after that the compensating underwear will be used in another form.
Fashion at the time was one of the ways to show your wealth, and men showed off wealth by putting wives on expensive dresses. Between 1845 and 1870crinolineA skeleton which is a kind of underwear has become popular, but in order to use Crinoline it was necessary to wear a dress using a huge amount of fabric with the help of a servant, so that only people with a large income will wear I could not do it.
After 1870, fashion changes with democratization. Also as technology innovation happens and department stores are born, people of different classes will wear similar clothes. At this time many people began to wear similar clothes, the standardization of the ideal silhouette occurred. For many years doctors and activists have been warning about the adverse effects of corsets, but as corsets became available for anyone, women ran to buy a corset. According to the advertisement of the time, the waist size of the corset had a width from 45.72 cm to 76.2 cm, and it seems that it was not necessarily requested to be slender.
A beautiful flowing gown flows in the 20th centuryLiberty Department StoreIt will be created by the flow of trying to release women from corsets. Although such a dress was favored in the art world, it seems quirky to the general public, even the people who are following the trend have come in the house and have not worn outside.
Many people liked corsets until the flapper dresses worn in the movie "Great Gatsby" gained popularity in the 1920s. Also, some people have the idea that "women cease wearing corsets and have suddenly become free", but curator Emma McClendon says that this is a misunderstanding. Although it does not use a corset just like a flowing dress not used, it was necessary to artificially change the shape of the body using a girdle that suppresses the shape of the buttocks.
And from the 1920s to the 1930s again, as "fashion that emphasized West"Madeleine · VioneBy "Bias cutHas been created. It expresses movement and softness by obliquely cutting cloth and making it into clothes, but it is regarded as responding to the needs of a large woman rather than a fashion image at the time.
In the 1940s he was a film costume designerGilbert AdrianCreates a silhouette dress with a big shoulders, slender ass, and popularity. After that, Adrian's style continued until Christian Dior announced a style called "New Look" which emphasized the bust again and narrowed the waist. A New Look dress requiring as much as 20 meters of fabric is said to have been a response to the era when poverty is calling for the continuation of the war. This "Ultra feminine" dress became a symbol of the 1950s.
In the 1960s again the era of boyish celebrations,TwiggyA model that does not make you feel like sex gathers popularity. However, different from the 1920s,Rudi GernreichIt was that a dress without room to wear compensating underwear like a dress was made.
The popularity of the corset and the girdle has fallen, but in this age the woman faces a new "tie". From the 1970s to the 1980s the necessity of dietary restrictions and exercises cried for keeping the figure shape. A dress of a design that slim body is sought was made, and in the 1980 's "slender but big breasts", in the 1990's "Kate MossFashion magazine begins to defend the body extremely thin as "like.
Although the slender body dominates the fashion industry even in the 21st century, the appearance of people's fashion gradually changed with the appearance of SNS. Through Twitter and Instagram, fashion dealing with more diverse physical forms is being opened up,CHROMATIt is known that the brand "hire" has a variety of racial / size / gender identity models especially for shows.
The fact that modern fashion brands exclude certain body shapes is a big debate even in 2018. Mr. McClendon believes that such discussion needs to continue in the future, "It is not our body to be bad, there is a problem with the evaluation system." If we do not acknowledge the problem, I will not begin. "
in Design, Posted by logq_fa