Why have you been born "Van Naturu (natural wine)" that utilizes the power of nature without using pesticides and machinery?

"Vin nature" or "natural wine" meaning "natural wine" in Japanese is a natural wine that can be used at all stages from raw material grape cultivation methods to wine manufacturing methods It is wine made to the utmost, without using pesticides or machines. In the present age where many wines are made with the help of science, there are wine producers who make wine based on nature and consumers who support it.

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There is an ambiguous part in the definition of natural wine, there is nothing stipulated clearly as "natural wine if it meets this." Generally, when cultivating raw grapes, eliminate pesticides, chemical fertilizers, insecticides and herbicides, avoid using as much as possible, not use machines at the stage of making wine from grapes, and prevent wine oxidation The use of natural yeast for fermentation without using effective sulphite is said to be a condition for being called natural wine.

BySergio Castro

Evaluation of natural wine in the wine industry is divided, while while there is a group that actively supports, "Criticism is expressed not only by ourselves as" natural "without permission" Yes. Robert Parker, a highly influential wine critic in the world, even states that it is "undefined fraud" about natural wine.

However, some natural wine producers think that their ambiguity is good. Without using a computer, a winemaker who cultivates and controls it depending on the phases of the moon,CarboySome people take a Roman way of putting wine in a transparent glass container called outdoor and putting it outdoors, and conversely filling the pot in a pot made of pottery and brewing it in the ground, its style is It is diverse.

ByIrina

Loire ValleyBased winemaker Sebastian Refoe has operated the natural wine industry association "L'Association des Vins Naturels" (Natural Wine Association) over the past decade. Mr. Refoe talks about his own brewing method, "We make wine a century ago, without adding anything", said Mr. Refoe, using organic grapes harvested by hand without using machines as raw materials, I am making wine with the power of existing natural yeast.

As a result, Mr. Refos says that the sunsaree wine has a deep amber color and it turns into a sweet flavor like dried lemon in crystallized honey. This is totally different from the feature of saint-ser-wine, the French government's "somewhat yellowish color, fresh citrus and fragrance of white flowers". Mr. Refoe said about his own wine, "It's not for everyone, it's not fast food, but it's completely pure."

Natural wine has never been known most of its existence, but since 2000 it has become a state of pull handles all over the world. The background is that there is a change in people's consciousness, and winemaker Philippe Pakale said: "Everyone was not ready at first, but the idea of ​​chefs and sommeliers It has changed, generations have advanced, and now we are ready. "


The etiquette (label) on the bottle of wine has an image depicting a vineyard and a brewery in a gentle hilly area, but the real wine is made in a more modern environment. Pesticides, fertilizers and insecticides are sprayed in the vineyards, according to statistics that 20% of pesticides consumed in France are used in vineyards that account for only 3% of the farmland throughout France, And it is said that 90% of the wine sold in the supermarket contains pesticide ingredients.

Also, the process of brewing is no longer the best use of nature like in the past, industrialized manufacturing process has been introduced, cultured yeast produced in the laboratory, antimicrobial agent, antioxidant etc. are input Wine is made. It seems that calcium and potassium are passed through the electromagnetic field so that crystallization does not crystallize, and various gases may be injected to adjust the ingredients.

Meanwhile, natural wine producers do not use such a method and are taking a simple method. Mr. Pakale said, "Yeast is the key to connecting wine and people." "We will utilize the living mechanism to express the information held by the land, even if only a few industrial methods are used Then, it will be making industrial products. "


In France, the center of wine culture and commerce, the way to meet the criteria for making wine is not traditional but by law. In order to be allowed to affix a label with a specific region name, it is necessary to follow strict guidelines, such as which grapes and manufacturing methods are used and the finished wine is finished in what kind of taste. This is a system that guarantees the quality of French agricultural products "Appellation · Dorisine · Controle(AOC) ", it is illegal to put a label without following this provision. And wines not complying with this standard will be labeled "vin de France (France wine)" which means that it is a very ordinary wine.

Multiple natural wine producers oppose this system as "we destroy the wine completely and emphasize only the main style and method". Natural wine producer Olivier Cousin published a letter criticizing that in 2003, following the provisions of the AOC would "kill grapes with a machine, add sulfite, enzymes, yeast, sterilize and filter" Then, to your own wine "Anjou(Anju) 's label, it was prosecuted as a violation. In order to oppose this, Mr. Couson performed the performance of appearing in the court as a horse race, acting controversial natural wine for passersby, but eventually to change the label I have no choice but to make a choice. Mr. Buntiste, the son of Mr. Couson, who inherited the plantation said, "AOC is a liar" "Origin designation was made to protect small producers, but now we are only obliged to drop quality." I will talk.


France was a representative wine-growing region of the world, but until the middle of the 20th century most of the vineyards were small, with manual wine making. That changed the two men, Professor Emil Peinau and Mr. Pascal Ribeauro Gaillon who are called "Fathers of Modern Wine Craftsmanship". They brought science to making wine and standardized production. The greatest but the most simple outcome left by Mr. Peinow was "to persuade the winemaker to" Choose high quality fruit and use more sterile and clean equipment " Mr. Peyno is also a pioneer who brought scientific methods born from laboratories about pH, sugar, alcohol etc elements.

Due to the modernization of the wine making method, at the end of the 1970 's, France' s wine exports exceeded a total of 1 billion dollars (about 200 billion yen at the time) and it was a great success. And now, countries around the world imitate that method and are making wine. French engineers and consultants were hired by wineries all over the world, spreading a new discipline of science and a traditional style of France. Michelle Roland, who had the most influence among such "wine makers", was at the same time having more than 100 clients worldwide.

In the 1990s, the word "Burnt Vintage" does not exist in this world, "said Bruneo Platz, winemaker of Bordeaux, went around the industry in the 1990s. The meaning of this word is that due to the modernization of wine making, the year (= vintage) where wine's quality worsens due to grape bad crops etc does not exist. The winemaking is no longer left to the natural, it is possible to be fully controlled by humans, the "vintage chart" summarizing the quality of the wine every year is no longer considered to be of the previous generation It began.

Bypolaristest

However, for such industrial wine making, there are producers who dispute. A small number of wine growers opposed to ways to make wine on a belt conveyor gathered under Mr. Marcel Rapierre later called "The God of Natural Wine". Mr. Lapierre felt a sense of crisis in the modernized wine making, "The chemistry did not make the taste of Beaujolais (· nouveau) inaccurate.The wine maker of the same generation as myself made a crazy pace of low quality wine "We are borrowing the future in the future" by producing it at the same time. "

Mr. Lapierre's idea is radical, and it is said that the idea that the brewer group took notice was the idea which could not be imagined. In 1980 Mr. Lapière met a local wine merchant, Jules Chevé of the 70s who was then making a small amount of wine without additives several years ago. Mr. Chauve, who has a career as a scientist and has kept many books on fermentation, said, "Healthy and diverse wild yeast living in the field from which grapes have been got is complex and attractive I will believe that it will produce a bouquet (scent). " Mr. Chauve also said in his book "Sulfur dioxide is a powerful antimicrobial agent and all additives, including it, will defeat my precious yeastpoison"It is written.

Mr. Chauve's rule of winemaking was based on "commitment to fermentation" and "exclusion of chemical substances". In order to grow natural yeast, grapes must be raised by healthy non-pesticide cultivation. Failure to use preservatives means that all processes are wasted, just because there is even a little rotten grape fruit and filthy tools, so making wine is very time consuming and a lot of attention I had to pay.


In the 1980s, when the science of wine was still not sufficiently developed, Mr. Chauve's wine making was very unreasonable. In those days, making wine without using sulfur was as difficult as comparing to climbing a mountain without using ropes. The French government has promoted and regulated the use of sulfur since the 19th century, but the wine expert at the time thought that wine making without using sulfur is impossible. Sulfur controls fermentation and protects from bacterial spoilage. It was a panacea equivalent to a penicillin in the world of vaccines.

The possibility of decent wine without using sulfur was very low, but Mr. Lapierre continued its efforts. In Mr. Lapierre's diary, there is a record of the year when the harvest was bad and the yeasts that may have made the wine turbid and sour. Mr. Chauve died in 1989, but as a result of 15 years of experiments, Mr. Lapierre was able to stably produce quality natural wines around 1992.

By enabling what was considered impossible, Mr. Lapière and his group showed a distinctive presence in the world of wine making. However, this group is still a sub-stream, and local people said that they were seen by people with strange eyes as "a group doing strange things".

Later, Lapierre et al. 'S Natural Wine Group will have many supporters in Paris and outside of France. Mr. Kermit Lynch who runs the wine import business in the United States said about the first time in the 1990 's when he tasted wines of Mr. Lapierre et al. "I was attacked by the feeling that the body was lifted up, Mr. Shove' s spirit is still I thought that I was alive. " Also, Japanese enthusiastically accepted wine of Lapierre et al. Mr. Cousin mentioned above recalls that "Japanese have a sharp taste, and bought a lot."

Bycjette

Later, natural wine has gradually increased its presence, and it is getting wider to be offered even at high-class restaurants around the world. It is believed that there is a change in people's consciousness in the background. Even in the beer world, craft beer with unique flavor and character,Just as the so-called "local beer" spreads support worldwide, It seems that natural wine also shows its presence as one of the personality that is also a part.

Nonetheless, the proportion of such products still accounts for a low level in the industry as a whole, and it seems that the wine for the volume zone is made by a modern manufacturing method. However, it does not indicate superiority or inferiority of which is superior, whether to emphasize taste and individuality, emphasis on easy-to-buy prices, or whether to emphasize both, the choices corresponding to those individual values ​​spread In the sense that diversification progresses, it seems that it is a situation that should be welcomed.