Why has Kenyan coffee, once hailed as the best in the world, declined?
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Kenyan coffee was once renowned as the 'best coffee' for coffee lovers around the world, but in recent years there have been growing complaints that its quality has been declining. Coffee industry consultant and certified barista Christopher Phelan explains the complex issues facing Kenyan coffee.
Kenya and “the decline of the world’s greatest coffee” – Christopher Feran
https://christopherferan.com/2021/12/25/kenya-and-the-decline-of-the-worlds-greatest-coffee/
Coffee was first brought to Kenya in 1893. At that time, Scottish missionary John Paterson obtained seeds from the British East India Company and began cultivating it in Kenya. Later, with the construction of the Uganda Railway and the arrival of European settlers, large-scale plantation agriculture developed in Kenya. In the early 20th century, the cultivation of export crops such as tea, coffee, and hemp expanded, and the coffee industry also grew rapidly. However, it was the colonial rulers who were at the center of this industry, and local farmers were excluded from its benefits.
Phelan points out that one of the problems with the Kenyan coffee industry is the 'auction system,' which keeps producers out of the market and allows middlemen to make huge profits. Producers have to wait six months or more after harvest for payment, and must borrow at high interest rates to cover their living expenses and the cost of purchasing agricultural materials during that time. This makes the auction system very tough on producers, and is also the background to the widespread question of 'why continue to produce coffee.'
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One of the reasons for the decline in the quality of Kenyan coffee is said to be the spread of disease-resistant varieties such as Ruiru 11 and Batian instead of traditional varieties such as SL-28 and SL-34 . However, Phelan questions the simple cause of this, pointing out that at the heart of the decline in quality lies a problem with the production system.
Among the production systems, Phelan is particularly interested in the 'secondary fermentation' process. This process, which produces the distinctive flavor of Kenyan coffee, involves first fermenting the coffee cherries for 12 to 24 hours, washing them once, and then soaking them again in clean water. This 'secondary fermentation' process allows the coffee beans to absorb small amounts of organic acids such as acetic acid produced during the fermentation process, which is thought to give them their unique fruity and gorgeous aroma. This process also contributes to increasing the rotation efficiency of the fermentation tanks and has also served as a means of resolving the issue of a lack of drying space.
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However, recently, the secondary fermentation is increasingly being omitted to cut costs. As a result, Kenyan coffee is losing its flavor and its overall quality is declining. In addition, the drying process is no longer performed with uniform humidity control, increasing the risk of premature deterioration of the beans.
In addition, in Kenya, the parchment (outer skin) of coffee beans is removed before export, which makes the beans more susceptible to deterioration, whereas in other producing countries, the beans are generally stored in parchment, which prevents deterioration and keeps the quality stable.
To address these challenges, the Kenyan coffee industry is seeing reforms, including a proposed Coffee Bill for 2021. The bill aims to overhaul the corrupt system and bring more benefits to producers. It is also expected that the introduction of small-scale and micro-mills will give producers more opportunities to differentiate their products.
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Phelan said that in order to stop the decline of Kenyan coffee, it is essential to first establish a direct payment system for producers and to realize low-interest loans. He also argued that structural reforms at the government level are needed to eliminate systemic inequality. In particular, he said that efforts should be continued to protect Kenya's unique quality by reconsidering improvements to the secondary fermentation and drying processes.
Phelan argued, 'Kenyan coffee is worth connecting its history and appeal to the future. The key going forward will be to build a sustainable system for both producers and consumers through reform and support.'
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