Everest's success rate has doubled in the last 30 years, but mortality has not changed
Everest, at an altitude of 8848 meters, is known as the highest peak in the world and is visited by more than 500 climbers every spring. According to a collaborative research team at the University of Washington and the University of California, Davis, the number of climbs has increased significantly, and at the same time, the success rate of climbing Everest has doubled by 30 times.
Mountaineers on Mount Everest: Effects of age, sex, experience, and crowding on rates of success and death
Mount Everest summit success rates double, death rate stays the same over last 30 years | UW News
https://www.washington.edu/news/2020/08/26/mount-everest-summit-success-rates-double-death-rate-stays-the-same-over-last-30-years/
The findings released this time are a continuation of the survey conducted between 1990 and 2005, and the research team compares the data from 2005 to 2019 with the previous survey. According to the research team, there were 2211 climbers who tried to climb Everest from 1990 to 2005, and 3620 climbers from 2005 to 2019, and the number of climbers who challenge Everest has increased in recent years. It is shown that you are doing.
In addition, the proportion of female climbers increased from 9.1% in 1990-2005 to 14.6% in 2005-2019. In addition, the number of climbers aged 40 and over increased from 38.7% from 1990 to 2005 to 54.1% from 2005 to 2019.
Furthermore, it was found that the percentage of climbers who succeeded in climbing Everest doubled from about one-third between 1990 and 2005 to about two-thirds between 2005 and 2019. On the other hand, the mortality rate of climbers who tried to climb Everest remained at about 1% for 30 years and remained almost unchanged.
The graph below shows the success rate of climbing (black line) and the mortality rate (mortality rate), divided by 10 years from 1950 to 2019. The black dotted line is the 'percentage of survivors after climbing', and the red dotted line is 'the percentage of people who died when climbing and descending'. Looking at this graph, we can see that the success rate, which was 20% to 30% until the 1980s, has continued to rise since the 1990s and has exceeded 60% from 2010 to 2019. On the other hand, the mortality rate has been flat regardless of the times.
The research team states that there are many possible factors that can contribute to the increased success rate. Emeritus Professor Raymond Huey of the Department of Biology, University of Washington, said that the weather forecast around Everest has improved dramatically since the storm-induced
In addition, popular routes have been cultivated firmly and ropes for mountain climbing have been deployed, so it seems that the fact that climbing and descending is very easy may also lead to an increase in the success rate of mountain climbing. In addition, it is said that the fact that mountaineers have accumulated experience also has an effect.
Professor Emeritus Huey said, 'Everest is still a very dangerous mountain, and climbing Everest is a goal that goes far beyond the limits for most people. Analyzing climbing data to date is a possible and deadly climb. It provides accurate information about the possibilities and helps climbers make informed decisions about whether to challenge this world-class peak. '
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