Seven things learned by engineers who started making bras
It is said that it takes at most 48 tries to make a perfect bra that fits the shape and size of the person's breast. So, former engineer Mona Zhang launched the brand
What we learned from 3 years of bra engineering, and what's next | by Mona Zhang | Diaries of a Female Entrepreneur making Women's Underwear | Medium
https://medium.com/diaries-of-a-female-entrepreneur-in-the-lingerie/what-we-learned-from-3-years-of-bra-engineering-and-whats-next-710b74bb1068
◆ Lesson 1: Don't be afraid to 'throw away high-tech solutions'
Originally working as an engineer, Zhang created a Python-based program to create a 3D pattern of bras that suits him. By creating an algorithm, we tried to realize the 'perfect bra' that the brassiere maker creates after 48 try-ons at once.
However, as he learned how to make a brassiere, he learned that 'the important thing in making a brassiere is not the technique, but the feedback of measurement and fitting.' This fact was unacceptable to Zhang, but to speed the company's progress, Zhang once abandoned the algorithms he had been developing.
Then, by moving away from the idea of 3D technology, he was able to simplify the problem. And in 2016, Zhang and colleagues redefined their goal as 'making a bra formula for the joy of consumers.' After that, Bra Theory changed to a custom-made brassiere that was easy to reach by minimizing the number of fittings by incorporating a unique algorithm based on mathematics and geometry, keeping the price down. bottom.
◆ Lesson 2: Learn why no one has solved the problem
At first, Zhang, who was ignorant about making bras, had an optimistic outlook, but as he learned about the complexity of making bras, he had to be pessimistic. Zhang's optimism / pessimism is graphed in chronological order like this.
Zhang cites the following 'short list' as an element related to making bras.
・ The flesh of the wearer
·colour
・ Degree of expansion and contraction of the fabric (varies depending on the manufacturing factory)
・ Timing of size measurement and temperature of tape measure
・ Breast elasticity and flexibility (changes in shape when lifted by a brassiere)
・ The underwire is correctly located at the base of the chest.
・ Sometimes patterning requires millimeter accuracy, and sometimes it can be changed by 1 cm.
・ Whether the shoulder strap slips depends on the position of the back strap.
・ When multiple fabrics are stacked, they interfere with each other and affect expansion and contraction.
These problems can be a threat to bra making, but they are not unsolvable problems, so they can be regarded as making the brand attractive. In fact, by trying on the underwire, Zhang created a commercial value that was not possible with off-the-shelf products.
Bra Theory is still evolving, but there has never been an 'impossible thing'. Mr. Zhang, who was pessimistic at one point, is becoming optimistic as of 2018, and he states the importance of 'accepting difficulties but not sticking to them and proceeding without stopping'.
◆ Lesson 3: Collaboration is the key
With the help of road experts, 'you can notice the pits before they fall completely into the holes,' Zhang said.
It's hard to notice when you have a brassiere in front of you, but when you look at the picture, Zhang noticed that there was a dent around the center of the cup. Mr. Zhang and the designers seemed to be confused by this phenomenon, but when he consulted with an expert, he said, 'Are you measuring seams? It may sound stupid, but small points make a big difference.' I heard he was told.
It was a problem in millimeters, but after getting this answer, measurements were taken more carefully, and the same problem never happened again.
'Beginner's ideas' are important for success, but expert experience and constructive dialogue between the two are important.
However, not all professionals understand your vision, so it's important to explain your concept well before working together.
◆ Lesson 4: 'Perfect' is an enemy of 'enough'
After seeing women complaining about the 'worst bra' many times, Zhang began to demand 'making the perfect bra.' However, Zhang, who started piloting Bra Theory, made a large number of prototypes for one person who wanted perfection, and eventually the customer left. From this experience, Zhang and his colleagues realized that 'consumers cannot try on 17 times.' He learned that 'what is'sufficient'is decided by consumers, not by themselves.'
And after making a 'sufficient' bra for family and friends in November 2017, the beta version of Bra Theory started in 2018. We recruited people who want to make bras on the Internet and asked them to come to the studio to make custom-made bras.
◆ Lesson 5: Say 'yes'
Until 2018, fittings for making bras for friends and family were done in Zhang's own room. Product manager Brooke Kao asked Zhang, who thought he needed a room for fitting to start the beta, 'Is that really necessary?' And then 'Use the Manhattan warehouse.' It seems that he proposed. 'Sure, Steve Jobs was founded in the garage, but should we do the same?' Zhang finally asked a friend to design the room for his budget. .. The following rooms have been prepared.
After asking consumers for feedback, they found that such a room was over-optimized and that customers were satisfied with a coworking space like WeWork. However, since it is necessary to take off clothes, after that, he said that he began to use the community for women called The Wing to perform fitting.
Although the result was over-optimization, Zhang said it was important to 'do what we thought we needed to move forward.' As a result of making mistakes, I no longer consider the work place as a limiting factor.
Entrepreneurs need to learn 'no', of course, but as long as the customer is in mind, 'yes' is important when starting something. By saying yes, you can also move yourself forward.
◆ Lesson 6: “Health” is important for entrepreneurs
Zhang cites one of the reasons Bra Theory didn't go well: 'I've ignored my physical, mental and emotional health for the last 25 years.' Although he graduated from the prestigious Princeton University and had an excellent title such as working as a software engineer by himself, Mr. Zhang said that he lacked self-awareness. He suffered from eating disorders between 2013 and 2015, gastric acid reflux in 2016, and irritable bowel syndrome in 2017, and he was forced to resolve his health problems.
The limiting factor for entrepreneurs is often themselves, including health and well-being.
Entrepreneurs need to treat themselves like 'employee stars' if they want to make the impossible possible through work. By investing in himself, Zhang says he has become energetic, has a growing mindset, and is able to do a lot.
◆ Lesson 7: Remember who you are making the product for
by Pablo Heimplatz
Bespoke bras that you try on over and over often cost $ 350. Bra Theory, which claims to minimize fitting by using an algorithm, costs half that price, $ 175, and is fully refunded if the brassiere you make doesn't fit. Zhang wants to turn his revenue into cheaper product development, but that's likely to take some time.
The cost of the custom-made brassiere made in June 2018 was 440 dollars (about 50,000 yen), and the selling price was 550 dollars (about 62,000 yen), but for promotion, 'You decide the price. It seems that it was shown. As a result, there were some people who paid 1 dollar (about 110 yen), while there were women who paid 62,000 yen. The woman said, 'Brassiere problems are sadness in my life and I have been in tears. I hope you can solve the problem and save a woman like me.' It seems that it was written.
Originally, Zhang started Bra Theory because he had a problem choosing a bra. At that time, Mr. Zhang thought that 'only his chest was strange', but he realized through Bra Theory that he was not alone. And they came to think that they could make the world a better place.
Even at low prices, Bra Theory's bespoke bras are more expensive than off-the-shelf bras, and many people don't reach out. However, Zhang explains the importance of 'remembering who you are making a bra for' when there are difficulties.
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