A surfer's movie challenging tremendous Big Wave

It is a movie of a surfer who challenges tremendous big wave. Because it is too big wave, I get pulled by jet ski and ride the wave. The scale is large enough to make it scratchy, but I am worried whether I could survive safely.

Details are as below. A big wave that I have never seen before.
YouTube - Surfing A Massive Wave


Surfing in a storm where the sea is very rough
YouTube - Hurricane surfer